Agrodolce

21030J Frederick Ave. (Father Hurley Blvd.), Washington DC
(301) 528-6150.

Details
Overall 6.8
Food 9.0
Service 7.0
Atmosphere 9.0
Value 2.0

our comments

If you fear that the ’burbs don’t need one more Italian restaurant, you’d have to agree that Agrodolce is a very welcome addition to the pizza routine. Not only has the owner put both thought and creativity into the décor and design, he’s also smartened up the menu to capture the gastronomes in the crowd. Sure, you’ll find le pizze, but these pies bear such names as calabrese with Italian sausages and stewed peppers, or rocket with a garlic-crusted base topped with arugula on a white pizza. Antipasti and salads, pastas and risottos all benefit from the same touch of ingenuity. We would go back right away for the tagliatelle alla Milanese, which is a heap of pasta embellished with grilled chicken and sun-dried tomatoes or the heaping portion of mostaccioli al forno, a blend of ricotta cheese and meat sauce smothering penne pasta. The chef slips up with the salads, which need a shot of flavor, but he makes up for any mistakes with the sensational cannoli, filled with a chocolate and a vanilla cream.

- April 2005

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